Luxor could do so much better

Luxor is far more accessible from the UAE since the Air Arabia flights started a few years ago, although the timings are at anti-social hours. But Egyptian tourism could still learn a lot from the Dubai model. 

It is five years since I last visited Egypt and penned a report explaining what needed to be done. And as far as I could see the one recommendation that has been taken up is to increase the entry fees to keep out vagrants. 

That has worked but visitors to Egypt are still bothered from morning to night by aggressive sellers of anything from taxis to statues, none of whom ever seems to learn by their near universal failure to sell anything. A more subtle approach would surely benefit both parties.

Hospitality weakness

The hotels also still leave a great deal to be desired, despite or perhaps because of the endemic over-manning. it is not courtesy that is lacking more commonsense in taking care of the customer, and noticing what might or might not be required. Even serving coffee at breakfast seems beyond the scope of hotel management in the five-star Steigenberger.

But the devil is in the detail, or lack of it. Door keys that fail to swipe. Great broadband Internet, shame about the appalling satellite TV reception. And don’t forget to check your mini-bar at the end of the stay, there is no daily refilling and tally of your purchases.

It is a shame as Luxor, or ancient Thebes has some magnificent treasures, notably the Karnak Temple with its 134 columned room, the Temple of Hatshepsut and the nearby Valley of the Kings. The sites are pretty well organized, albeit you always have to run the gauntlet of aggressive souvenir sellers.

Luxor could also do itself a favor by sorting out its rogue taxi drivers, and introduce meters to avoid the annoying haggling over prices. Standard prices could work wonders.

Baksheesh

However, Egypt is always going to have its own unique characteristics, such as the small payments of baksheesh that everybody expects and demands. I was a bit taken aback at the offers to allow photography in banned areas in return for a small consideration and you have to wonder if the priceless antiquaries are really being looked after properly.

Memories of the 1991 attack on mainly Swiss tourists at the Temple of Hatshepsut have faded but strong security remains, and a close eye is kept on anybody not known to the locals.

On the other hand, visiting Luxor is not expensive. A five-star(ish) hotel for two with all drinks and meals set us back $250 a day, and while not up to Dubai standards it was a safe and comfortable option. Luxor could do better but it is still Luxor.