The Gordon Ramsay restaurant, Ritz-Carlton, Powerscourt, Ireland

Arguably the most famous chef in Dubai is also leading the battle to improve Irish cuisine from his signature restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton in Powerscourt, an estate outside Dublin.

This is a difficult time for celebrity chefs, and in a global recession even worldwide diversification does not help. Gordon Ramsay is no exception. Perhaps he has over-expanded and now has too many fingers in too many pies.

Ramsay magic

However, this Scottish-born human dynamo inspires fierce loyalty and enthusiasm among his young staff. We stepped into the kitchen after our meal at The Gordon Ramsay and the scene was more like watching the intense concentration of artists at work, or surgeons doing a heart bypass.

The proof of such dedication is in the product. Each dish is meticulously presented and every last detail just right. Needless to say only the finest local and international produce is used and cooked to absolute perfection.

Seafood is the house speciality and you can try a multi-course tasting menu that seems to never end. But we decided to have a more traditional meal of three courses: fois gras, steak and cheese or desert.

The intensity of the flavours set this menu apart, and the sommelier recommended a fine wine from Alsace for the fois gras and a cabernet sauvignon called Jordan from South Africa for the main course. It was all superb.

This restaurant is also memorable for its panoramic views over the Sugar Loaf Mountain of Wicklow County. The spacious lounge and generously large seats are lovingly watched over by attentive staff who can explain any aspect of the meal.

Recession impact

On a Saturday night the room is packed but sadly there are not so many guests in the weekdays. Even with some special deals this is not a cheap dining option and something for treats and special occasions, and perhaps there is less to celebrate in these bleak economic times.

The Gordon Ramsay opened in October 2007 just as the worldwide recession began to take its toll and Ireland has a $90 billion debt mountain left over from the collapse of its property boom, almost the same amount as the outstanding debts of Dubai.

Unfortunately then the timing of this restaurant’s opening has been bad even if everything else about it screams excellence and another triumph for the British celebrity chef. And if you need the helipad phone ahead.