Restaurant Review: French fine dining, Stay at the One&Only Palm Jumeirah

French fine dining has long struggled to make it in Dubai. Le Ciel at the old InterCon shut ages ago, though several successors are faring much better around town. Enter the newest contender called Stay, located in the palatial neo-Morrocan setting of the recently opened One&Only hotel and spa resort on the Palm Jumeirah.

Getting to the restaurant can be an experience. There is a fast launch to ferry you from a jetty at the One&Only Palace hotel on the Jumeirah Beach opposite. Riding in something like a Venetian water taxi to a restaurant definitely adds to the sense of occasion.

Room 101

Landing at the Palm Jumeirah and you are not disappointed. A beautiful, low-rise boutique hotel beckons from the hotel jetty which features a spectacular chill-out lounge and bar named 101 with sweeping views out into the blue waters. You can walk or take a golf buggy to the main hotel.

This is a paradise found that we will save for another review. It is essentially a scaled down version of the Jumeriah Beach One&Only complex but with only 90 rooms and four villas, many with their own direct beach access. You can rent your own air-conditioned beach hut by the pool, not a facility we have seen anywhere else.

The main building is all light colours and marble floors with a comfortable feeling, still designed to impress but not to distress. You amble past the silver-leaf and quartz crystal of the all-day restaurant Zest into the elegant opulence of Stay, where Michelin three-star chef Yannick Alleno rules the roost.

Fine ambience

Here the chandaliers are black, the lighting subdued and the swirling paisley-patterned carpet sets the scene for a first-rate dinner. The menu is extensive. We opted for our favorite fois gras that comes with edible gold-leaf on top and mini-brioche. Excellent, especially with the Chilean sauterne recommended by the knowlegeable French sommelier.

He also came up with a Californian pinot noir as the perfect complement to our choice of main courses: succulent veal fillet with macaroni and an equally delectable looking duck breast. Perhaps we should have ordered some side dishes but this left room for Chef Alleno’s astonishing Pastry Library. It is full of exceedingly pleasant surprises and we won’t spoil that by going into the details here.

The word is already spreading and the restaurant was fully booked on our visit. For the New Dubai end of the city this is a welcome addition and would be a great place for a romantic evening or to bring that special client about to sign a big deal. But do remember to book the ferry back rather than take a yellow cab.