Restaurant review: Dower House, Royal Crescent Hotel in Bath
Posted on 02 September 2011 with no comments from readers
It is a sign of the times that this restaurant is actually owned by Lloyd’s Bank at the moment, and Lloyd’s Bank is in turn mainly owned by the British government, so you could say Dower House in Bath is pretty much the best in state-owned restaurants in the UK.
Located in the beautiful garden annex of the Royal Crescent Hotel, where the future George IV once lived as the Prince of Wales, Dower House is still functioning to superlative fine dining standards despite the hotel being in administration. Apparently it may soon be back in private hands and let us hope they do not ruin it.
Nouvelle cuisine
You could almost be in France. The waiters and waitresses are mainly French as is the sommelier though the head chef David Campbell is clearly Scottish. The dishes lean heavily towards nouvelle cuisine with an accent on appearance and flavor.
There is plenty of original flair in the presentation of old favorites like fois gras embellished with candied ginger or the finely sliced duck breast. But be careful to take the bread because you will not find a generous serving of vegetables with this dish, instead they are neatly arranged in a very modest heap.
A lack of food was the main complaint among diners, not the quality that is universally rated outstanding. The pleasantly soft interior design also won praise as did the incomparable location in the most famous crescent of Georgian Bath.
Great cheese board
To finish the best choice is probably the spectacular cheese board with a selection of hard, goat, soft and blue cheeses to melt the heart of any cheese lover. Or try a very tasty panna cotta.
Be guided by the very able sommelier in your choice of wine from the extensive cellar which is not overpriced. Indeed, the whole restaurant is very reasonable from $100 for a three-course menu and the lunch for $60 a bargain.
The staff are numerous and very attentive though they do annoyingly sometimes seem to forget or misunderstand small details which is a minus point in an otherwise superb establishment. However, this is the restaurant to come if you are visiting Bath.
